Loghi Farm (Toscano)

 

Azienda Loghi is a small family farm located in the province of Siena, Tuscany, situated within the up-and-coming Orcia Valley D.O.C., as well as an area called Crete Senesi, which is famous for their white truffles. The farm is a remote 52 hectares of land, with much covered in natural forests — but within the property lies 17 hectares dedicated to truffle farming. Many connoisseurs actually prefer the truffles of Crete Senesi to those of the more popular Alba region (or, at least claim a strong rivalry between the two).

Here, Valentino Berni, who has had 2 previous generations to learn from, collects these earthly gems, yet also has an exceptional passion and knack for making beautiful wines and olive oil from their 4 hectares of vineyards and 4 hectares of olive trees. As to preserve the land for the heath of all crops that he harvests, Valentino’s farming practices on his sandy clay soils are strictly pristine and completely natural. The methods in the cellar follow this minimal approach from the fields, as Valentino allows natural fermentations for his reds, ages in used barrique and large Slavonic oak as to not impart too much foreign flavor to the wines, and keeps sulfite use to an absolute minimum in order to showcase the grapes. The wines are fresh and approachable, with great structure and class.



 

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The Loghi Bianco is Valentino’s Trebbiano and Malvasia blend, coming from his 12-year-old estate fruit within the Orcia Valley.  This is a beautiful expression of his grapes, as after the hand-harvested fruit was brought into the cellar, it was gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel tanks to retain the fresh acidity of the grapes, picked at only about 23 brix.  After a light filtering and minimal dosing of SO2, the resulting wine remains fresh and lively from start to finish.  Yellow apples and citrus are accompanied by a light texture and crisp acidity, with an overall balance that is refreshing and sprightly.  There also seems to be an umami-like “truffly-ness” at the heart of the wine! A wonderful pair for simple seafood preparations, firm cow cheeses, and fresh salads.